u/ebyland

It looks underwatered.

Mealybugs and probably also sooty mold from the mealybugs. For the mealybugs, rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab dabbed directly on the white clusters kills them on contact, and then following up with an insecticidal soap or neem oil spray over the whole bush will help clear the wi…

I'd guess its a fungal issue, due to the overly wet weather. I suggest you cut it back hard to improve airflow through the plant, remove any blackened or mushy stems completely, and try to avoid overhead watering.

Hmm, if that's the case, it may not be herbicide at all. It could just be that the tomato varieties you planted in the grow bags are just more prone to physiological leaf roll, which is a very common and a harmless response to heat, inconsistent watering, or being slightly rootbo…

The summer crop is usually not a huge harvest compared to the fall crop.

The herbicide contamination comes from the soil or compost that goes into the bags, not the grow bags themselves. Some commercial bagged soils and composts are made with materials that came from fields or lawns treated with persistent herbicides, and those chemicals survive the c…

Yes, this looks like mealybugs. Dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and dab it directly on the white mass to kill them on contact, then follow up with an insecticidal soap or neem oil spray over the whole plant paying close attention to all the stem junctions and leaf undersides…

Tying them with twine was a great move! The main thing that will help tame the chaos and improve fruit production is pruning the suckers. Removing those redirects the plant's energy from growing more leaves and stems into actually ripening the tomatoes you already have developing…

Looks like you have aphids. Your lettuce looks good, but you do want to take care of it before the aphids multiply. A strong spray of water directed at the undersides of leaves knocks a lot of them off and repeated applications every few days can keep numbers down. If that's not …

These are so beautiful!

Yes, this looks like mildew. You did the right thing by removing that leaf immediately and disposing of it rather than composting it. A copper-based fungicide is one of the most effective treatments and works as both a preventive and a treatment on early infections. Make sure you…

Heritage is a great variety for heavy production but cutting it back in spring may have cost you your summer crop since Heritage is an everbearing variety that produces first in summer on last year's canes and then again in fall on new canes. If you removed all the old canes in s…

The most likely culprit is herbicide contamination in the grow bags, specifically aminopyralid or clopyralid which are broadleaf herbicides that persist in compost and bagged soil products and cause exactly this kind of twisting fern-like distortion in tomatoes.

Yeh, it might be just done blooming as well

I'd move it further away from the fence and that large magnolia, both for root competition and to make sure it gets full sun all day without any afternoon shading from the fence. For soil, citrus loves well draining, slightly acidic soil. Mix your native soil with good quality co…

I think it is probably due to your new trellis. Black walnut produces juglone which is toxic to many plants.

I'd say it looks very healthy! Just make sure you're watering deeply and consistently for the first season since newly planted rhododendrons need reliable moisture while establishing roots, especially during dry spells. They like consistently moist but well drained soil and hate …

Pull as much grass as you can by hand, then lay several layers of cardboard or thick newspaper right over what's left, wet it down, and top it with 3-4 inches of fresh mulch. The cardboard smothers what remains without any chemicals and breaks down naturally over the season. Just…

Unfortunately, this is pretty common for grocery store herbs. It's likely two things- overwatering and too much direct afternoon sun. Daily watering is probably too much. Stick your finger an inch into the soil and only water when it feels dry at that depth. Also, afternoon direc…

This is so incredibly beautiful!

It looks so nice!

For staining over old stain, remove any peeling or flaking areas completely, but you don't need to strip it down to bare wood everywhere if the existing stain is still well bonded. A good cleaning with a deck wash followed by light sanding to rough up the surface and knock down a…

Yes, I think your lilac is just done blooming. For your peony, the yellow blotches on those leaves look like either a fungal leaf spot or possibly herbicide drift, but given the plant otherwise looks healthy and is pushing new green growth, I wouldn't panic. For your bleeding hea…

I wouldn't bother. They will fall off on their own eventually, and I don't like to risk messing up my new leaves.

probably keep it to just 2 or 3 for that pot.

Just water thoroughly from the top until water runs freely out of the drainage holes, which pushes any salt buildup down and out. Do it once and then go back to your normal routine. Sounds like it was just stressed from before you got it and is settling in nicely now.

You're on the right track! Each fall just dump a thick layer of compost and wood chips on top without digging it in, and over a few years the soil biology will transform your compacted mess from the top down. Planting daikon radish as a cover crop in fall also helps break through…

The trick with radishes is storing them with the greens removed and keeping them moist. Cut the tops off, put the radishes in a zip lock bag or airtight container with a damp paper towel, and they'll stay crisp in the fridge for 1-2 weeks easily. The greens pull moisture out of t…

That brown crispy edge pattern is classic leaf scorch, which is usually caused by either underwatering, too much direct sun, or salt buildup in the soil from over fertilizing. Since it came this way it was likely already stressed before you got it. Hold off on more fertilizer fo…

This is so smart! Good luck with the wait! It'll be worth it!

I wouldn't do that as they could root and sprout. Burying them in your raised bed is a genuine risk of planting an aggressive weed right in your garden.

Yum! That looks delicious!

It's likely transplant shock. Skip the epsom salt, it won't help transplant shock and can actually cause problems if the soil doesn't need magnesium. Also don't prune the brown tips yet since arborvitae don't regenerate from bare wood and you could do more harm than good. Just le…

This is so incredible! Absolutely lovely!

Yup, I'd also say that is stinging nettle. Do not touch this with bare hands!

I think a little drooping is normal after watering. It doesn't necessarily mean anything is wrong. The bigger issue I see is that you have way too many plants in one pot. Perilla gets large and bushy and you'll want to thin these down to maybe 2-3 plants max or they'll compete ba…

Your first move is stabilizing that bare slope with a fast spreading groundcover like creeping juniper or kinnikinnick before it erodes, then plant a row of fast growing evergreens like Pacific wax myrtle or arborvitae along the top edge for privacy. You'd have solid screening ba…

Wow! It looks so nice!

Your best shot is grafting it onto a normal green monstera rootstock which people have done successfully with albino monsteras, so look up grafting tutorials on YouTube. That hint of green in the new leaf is encouraging and buys you more time, so keep it in bright indirect light …

No, those chemicals have very little soil persistence and break down relatively quickly without significantly impacting soil health or harming established broadleaf perennials.

The rock mulch is honestly your biggest enemy here because weeds love growing through it and you can't easily smother them. The long game solution is pulling back the rocks, laying fresh landscape fabric, and putting the rocks back, but that's a big one-time project. For a more i…

For carrots, yes definitely thin them aggressively since they need space underground to actually form a root. Aim for about 2 inches between each plant minimum, and snip don't pull. Basil is actually a bit more forgiving and you can get away with a couple plants in the same pot,…

Yeah that does look like fireblight unfortunately, which is a bacterial disease that's pretty common on pears. The dead brown leaves that look scorched and stay clinging to the branch (instead of falling off) are the classic tell. The good news is it's manageable, especially if …

I'd expect to see something like this priced somewhere in the $800-$1,500 range depending on your market and whether you're delivering and installing. The corrugated metal and pressure-treated lumber alone aren't cheap, and the custom sizing and arch work justify a real premium o…

I think you have a pretty solid initial plan. The horizontal 2x10 acting as a spreader beam with legs to adjacent joists is basically a mini shoring setup, which is exactly what contractors use in situations like this. A few things I'd tweak though: instead of a jack, consider j…

Two weeks in is a great time to thin because the roots haven't tangled up too badly yet. For your radish/cauliflower situation, you really want just one seedling per pot if it's a radish, or honestly the same for cauliflower since both need room to develop. Just pick the stronge…

Base of the stem.

Arborvitae don't regenerate from brown wood, so whatever is dead there isn't coming back. The good news is the top half looks genuinely healthy and green. Your best move is to just trim the dead stuff off cleanly, let the healthy top keep growing, and plant something low in front…

I am happily surprised every year to see my dahlias survive another winter! Yes, this definitely looks like a dahlia!

Everything is so colorful! Beautiful!

Very cool plant!

Lovely! Thanks for sharing!

Incredible!

Great work! It looks beautiful!

Yup, go ahead and snip the dead flowers off right at the base. Since you can't plant in the ground, just make sure the trough drains really well and that you're letting it dry out completely between waterings. Lavender in containers wants to be almost neglected when it comes to w…

Beautiful!

You're actually in better shape than you think! That rhododendron on the right is a great anchor plant and the ferns are perfect for shade, so keep both of those. Once you clear the leaves and debris you'll probably be surprised what's already growing that's worth keeping. For b…

I'd skip pavers and just use a simple steel or aluminum landscape edging. It's cheap, nearly invisible, keeps the gravel from migrating into the lawn, and holds that line cleanly without adding visual clutter. If you want something more decorative, a single row of larger river co…

iNaturalist and PictureThis are both great for this exact situation. For zone 5b context and what's worth keeping vs. pulling, the Missouri Botanical Garden plant finder (free website) is fantastic once you know what you're dealing with. Honestly, just walk your property on a nic…

This is so beautiful!!

Honestly your best move is a two-pronged approach: plant clumping Fargesia bamboo along the railing base (won't spread, grows thick fast) and fix a trellis panel to the railings with evergreen clematis or star jasmine climbing through it. You'll have solid low coverage within a s…

I think you have got a great plan! I'd start by building the paver retaining wall first on a compacted gravel footing before doing anything else, since that's your anchor point for the whole project. Dig out the lower area a few extra inches to allow for a compacted base layer an…

Sit down and enjoy! It looks beautiful!

The clusters with the broad oval leaves are most likely lily of the valley, which is a perennial ground cover that spreads pretty aggressively, so if you didn't plant it intentionally it can definitely take over. The smaller rounder leaves mixed in look like they could be creepin…

Half a day of sun is actually perfect for recovery! Just keep an eye on the soil moisture since containers in partial shade can sometimes stay wet longer and you don't want to overwater while it's already stressed.

That tall dark green vertical shoot growing right next to the split is almost certainly a rootstock sucker, so before you do anything else you need to confirm whether it's coming from below or above the graft union. If it's from below the graft you absolutely want to remove it, n…

This actually looks more like fasciation than mosaic virus. Just snap that affected stem off, keep an eye on the rest of the plant, and it should continue growing normally. It's almost certainly a one off thing and not something that will spread.

It is probably either flea beetle damage or a viral issue. Flip the leaf over and check the underside for tiny dark specks or little bugs that jump when disturbed, that would confirm flea beetles. If it is flea beetles, row cover early in the season is your best prevention, and s…

Given your climate and the size of the space, I'd probably lean toward a row of Lilly Pillies trained as standards since they tick every box and are pretty much bulletproof in Sydney. Murraya is also a solid choice for Western Sydney.

It's probably due to sunscald from being moved outside too quickly without hardening off first. I doubt it's dead, though. Maybe try moving it to a spot with indirect light or morning sun only for a week or two and let it adjust gradually before putting it back in full sun. The n…

Love the lighting! Looks like a cozy, romantic space!

Best of Luck!

Of course, happy to help!

I'd still have hope! One thing jumps out right away though, that green edging ring around the base of each tree is sitting right up against the trunk which can trap moisture and cause issues over time, so I'd pull those back a few inches. The browning on that one tree is most lik…

So disappointing! I'm sorry! You still have time if you buy starts from the greenhouse!

I would guess it's stink bugs, and unfortunately soapy water and dill won't do much as those stinkers are pretty resilient. Your best options are to hand pick them off in the morning when they're sluggish, or use row cover fabric early in the season before the plants flower to ke…

What you're seeing on the old canes is totally normal. Those brown canes that fruited last year are done and just need to be cut all the way down to the ground. With everbearing varieties like Autumn Britten and Caroline, a lot of people actually do a full cut down in late winter…

A deck from 1992 that's never been replaced is already living on borrowed time, so patching a few boards is just delaying the inevitable. The underside actually looks structurally decent though, so the framing and joists may be salvageable, which could save you some money. et a c…

Throw them out in yard waste bags.

This looks like transplant shock which is totally normal for a rose only 3 weeks in the ground. If it's still blooming, it's not dying, just stressed. Make sure you're deep-watering 2-3 times a week, since the mulch can trick you into thinking it's moist when the root zone is act…

"5 gallon" grow bags are often mislabeled and hold closer to 3 or 4 gallons of actual soil. You can still grow potatoes in them, but stick to one plant per bag and go with a smaller variety like Yukon Gold or a fingerling. If you want bigger yields, 10-gallon bags are the sweet s…

Something like clematis or a climbing rose would give you nice blooms without taking over too fast, and they’re generally easy to manage if you prune a bit each year. Honeysuckle is another option for flowers and fragrance but can get a bit aggressive depending on the type. Since…

Bleeding hearts can do fine in a pot, but that seed starting mix is probably the main issue since it’s too light and doesn’t hold nutrients well. I’d repot into a richer potting mix with some compost mixed in and make sure the container has good drainage. Keep it in that bright s…

If I were you, I'd leave the stump and put a statement planter on top. Then plant low maintenance plants around it like ornamental grasses, lavendar, or a small shrub mix. Or, you could pay once and get the stump ground out.

I would suggest starting with boxwoods or inkberry for structure, then mix in things like hydrangeas, hostas, ferns, and heuchera for texture and color. You could even add a small ornamental tree like a dogwood off to one side to soften the porch. Keep it in loose groupings inste…

I wouldn't say you are heading for disaster, but you are signing yourself up for maintenance. Expect to prune this a few times a year or it will likely get too heavy and tangled for the netting. In the long run, I would guess it would require less maintenance if you just keep it …

This looks like dill. If you crush it a little and it smells like pickles, I think it's safe to say you have dill.

Sí, el coleo es un poco tóxico para un gato, pero no pondrá en peligro su vida.

Pothos is the easiest base layer and handles shade really well, great for that draping effect. For faster fill, morning glory grows crazy quick and climbs railings easily, though it’s more seasonal . For something more permanent, jasmine (mogra or climbing types) works great in m…

Caladiums, gladiolus, tuberous begonia, pineapple lily, rain lilies, ginger lilies, tigridia, and peacock orchids would all be good options

I think you have a good idea! I agree that it would actually help break up that big open lawn and make the space feel more intentional with a clearer front and back area. Just keep the curve smooth so it doesn’t start feeling busy. I think brick edging would fit the style of yard…

That is a big loss! They are beautiful!

Unfortunately, it's true! Asparagus farming is all about patience and giving it time to build a strong root system. You could probably get away with harvesting a little bit this year, but if you pick too much too early, you may weaken it and end up with smaller harvests long term…

Yes, get rid of the plastic edging but also skip the weed barrier fabric. I would focus on good soil and use a few inches of good mulch to keep the weeds down. I think a Japanese Maple would be a great option for that spot.

My mom had a similar situation and planted a lilac bush. I personally love otto luyken cherry laurel bushes because they stay green all year and get pretty big. A hydrangea bush would also be beautiful. They grow quickly, so it would hide a lot eventually.

I think you would have room on the left side of the house. I would set it back about 10-15 feet from our driveway and also not too close to the existing tree. If you want shade on the second floor of your house eventually, go with a Japanese Zelkova and Red Maple. If you want to …

This could be a Aquilegia, they usually flower in the late spring to early summer.

Once a tree loses its lower branches like that, it usually won’t regrow them, especially if it’s a type that doesn’t push new shoots from old wood. Grafting isn’t really practical here either, that’s more for propagation than filling in gaps on a mature tree. Your best bet is to…

I can't wait for peony season!! Your's are so beautiful!

If they’re truly no-sun, you’re pretty limited to low-light houseplants rather than anything flowering. Things like pothos, small philodendron, snake plant pups, or ZZ plant are probably your safest bets since they tolerate very low light and don’t mind being in tighter container…