u/terrascape_supply

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Active in 9 subreddits · 100 items · first seen 22 Apr 2026, last seen 24 Jun 2026. Most active in r/gardening and around 18:00 UTC.

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1

Rubber mulch and engineered wood fiber are the two most common choices since they provide good cushioning, stay in place well, and are easy to maintain. Pea gravel is another option that drains well but some parents prefer softer surfaces for younger kids.

1

Cut the trunk down as low as possible, then use a mattock or pickaxe to dig out and sever as much of the corm as you can rather than trying to pull the whole thing out intact. For really established clumps you can also drill holes into the remaining stump and pour in a concentrat…

1

This gives me that nostalgic, quintessential American summer feeling.

1

Those plants look really healthy and are already flowering which is exciting for a first timer! The silvery markings on the leaves are totally normal for zucchini by the way, that's just natural leaf variegation. For your space question, zucchini grown vertically can actually wo…

1

I'd guess this is variegation as mosaic virus typically presents differently, with more irregular yellowing, distorted or puckered leaf texture, and stunted new growth.

1

I don't think this is white rust. White rust causes raised white pustules on the undersides of leaves that look almost blister-like. But, keep an eye on it over the next week or two and if you do start seeing yellowing, distorted new growth, or those distinct raised pustules unde…

1

I would guess this is rust fungus. Azoxystrobin and propiconazole treat it, so keep applying that, especially in the early morning so the lawn has time to dry during the day. Also, if possible, water in the morning rather than evening since wet grass overnight is what rust thrive…

0

Treat it with horticulture oil spray. For preventing it in the future, there's not much else to do other than keeping your oak tree healthy, so avoid compacting the soil around the root zone, don't over or underwater during dry spells, and avoid excessive fertilizer. Also keep an…

1

It's probably either a scale insect infestation or wooly aphids, both of which are very common on oaks.

0

The debate about pinching early flowers is real and honestly both approaches work, but for New England specifically where your growing season is shorter, I'd lean toward letting them keep the flowers rather than pinching them back. The one thing I would do is start feeding them …

1

Your worry about the wood warping is valid, but a 4x4 pressure treated post cemented 4 feet deep can absolutely handle 41 feet of string light tension if you use a wire rope or cable as your actual support rather than letting the string lights bear the load themselves. The trick …

3

This does look like transplant shock to me. make sure you water them deeply and consistently. Give it a slow, deep soak two to three times a week, depending on rainfall, letting water penetrate down to the root zone rather than just wetting the surface. Also, avoid fertilizing ri…

1

Honestly, that looks pretty much perfect timing! The skin cracking you can see near the top is actually a sign it was right at the edge of being ready, so you pulled it at a great moment. If you had left it much longer it likely would have continued to crack and split, which usua…

1

The mushy spot on the bottom of that strawberry is most likely gray mold or just rot from the fruit sitting against the soil or another surface while wet. It happens pretty commonly in containers, especially after rain or if humidity is high. Go ahead and pull that berry off now …

0

Two days in is way too early to worry! Black Beauty Ultra typically takes 10 to 14 days to show germination so you're right on schedule. The setup looks solid and keeping it consistently moist is exactly what you need to be doing right now.

4

Cutting it back now won't hurt it long term but you will lose the current flowers. If it were mine I'd let it finish this bloom cycle, enjoy the show for another week or two, then cut it back to about 12 inches once the flowers fade. Jackmanii is a Group 3 clematis which means i…

3

I think this looks like a DIY-friendly project and a great first landscaping task as new homeowners. Congratulations, by the way! You've got great bones to work with! For the brown shrubs, prune out the dead branches first and give them a few weeks to see if they push new growth…

6

My guess is that these are actually just the common field poppy variety. The most likely explanation is that they were included in your wildflower mix, either intentionally as a filler flower or as an unlisted component. Many pollinator mixes include non-native annual poppies lik…

2

Pulling the weeds and repotting is the best first step. When you repot, check the roots and trim away anything that looks black or mushy, and make sure the new pot has solid drainage since citrus really hates sitting in wet soil. After that, the two things that will make the bi…

3

For lower cost option, a good privacy fence or even temporary livestock panel fencing (the metal grid kind) is pretty affordable and very effective. You can often find used panels on Facebook Marketplace for cheap. A solid visual barrier is actually more effective than you'd thin…

1

Mow high (3.5-4 inches) and water deeply once or twice a week until fall, then in September core aerate, overseed with tall fescue, and topdress with compost. That combo will fill it in dramatically by next spring with no chemicals needed. For the low spots just add a thin layer …

2

Give it another 3-4 weeks before doing anything. Reseeding too early just wastes seed since the existing grass is still establishing. Keep it consistently moist and resist the urge to mow until it's at least 3 inches tall. It will likely fill in yet.

22

I'd say this is actually pretty normal for zone 5. You've got green growth at the base, so that's a great sign. What type of hydrangea it is determines whether to cut the old wood. If it's an Annabelle or panicle type it blooms on new wood and you can cut everything back hard. …

1

Option #2 and 3. I'd suggest waiting until August or September to seed.

1

Spinosad based granular bait like Ortho Orthene or Monterey Garden Insect Spray is much more effective than diatomaceous earth and has very low toxicity to animals. Apply it around the mounds without disturbing them first so the ants carry it back into the colony.

2

It may just be establishing roots, but the amount of dead material suggests it may have struggled with watering or heat stress in that rock surround since rocks absorb and radiate a lot of heat. Give it a hard cutback to about 3-4 inches if you haven't already, make sure it's get…

1

This sounds pretty normal for dichondra, especially with clay soil. Aeration is probably your best bet and then overseed the patchy areas. It should fill in relatively quickly once conditions improve.

1

Planting near each other absolutely works, they don't need to share a pot.

3

The leaves and reddish stems look like they could be a cherry or possibly a serviceberry, both of which can be propagated from cuttings though it takes some patience. Here's what to do: take a cutting about 6 inches long with a few leaves, remove the bottom leaves, dip the cut e…

3

Those are Eastern tent caterpillars and they turn into pretty unremarkable tan/brown moths. The web nest is the colony's home base and they fan out from it to feed on your tree's leaves during the day. Get rid of that nest now before they defoliate your tree. Just pull the whole…

1

That looks like basil downy mildew, which is a very common fungal disease that spreads fast in cool humid fall conditions. The dark spots and curling/drooping leaves are the classic signs, and the fact that it got worse quickly fits the pattern. Unfortunately once it's this far …

1

For the jalapeños, you can carefully separate them but do it gently with your fingers while the roots are moist, and accept that you might lose one in the process. If they're really tangled just plant them together in a good sized container, two jalapeños in one pot works fine as…

1

Your friend's advice is solid and honestly the easiest low maintenance solution. Just extend the mulched area out to where the grass naturally stops, edge it cleanly with a border of garden stone or steel edging, and put down 2-3 inches of wood chip mulch. It'll look intentional …

2

It's probably powdery mildew. Since it's just one small spot, pull the affected weeds, improve airflow by not overwatering, and keep an eye on it. Powdery mildew rarely spreads aggressively to healthy bermuda grass itself. If it spreads, a basic baking soda spray or neem oil will…

1

Hostas can be your best friend here since they thrive in exactly these conditions, come in tons of varieties, and fill space beautifully. Pair them with some liriope (monkey grass) along the edges and a few ferns, and you'd have a really lush, low-maintenance bed that practically…

2

Yes, that's right! The goal is to have a clear trunk with branches that spread outward and upward, kind of like an open vase shape. Just don't go too crazy all at once since persimmons can be a little sensitive to heavy pruning. Take off no more than about 25% in a single season …

2

For Connecticut, you want a cool-season grass mix, typically a blend of tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass. Scotts or Jonathan Green both make good Northeast-specific mixes. For the bare patches, fall is actually the best time to overseed in CT since the soi…

2

What a great space already- You've got great bones to work with! Here are my initial thoughts: That mulch bed along the house is begging for some shrubs and perennials. A mix of ornamental grasses, knockout roses, or coneflowers would add a ton of color and texture without much …

2

Of course! Happy to help! I do believe hydrangea's are fairly hardy and resistant, but also just a little dramatic!

2

The best defense against pests is just keeping your own plants healthy since stressed plants are way more attractive to pests and disease than vigorous ones. Regular checking of your leaves goes a long way for catching issues early. For disease, just make sure there's decent air…

3

It looks like a combo of leaf scorch from those hot windy days plus possibly some fungal issues from the nonstop rain right after. That exact cycle of heat stress then wet conditions is basically a recipe for what you're seeing. The good news is the new growth looks healthy and g…

1

This is almost definitely slug/snail damage, especially given that you've seen them in there! The copper tape was a great call. The leaf curl and discoloration on the newer growth could be a combo of transplant stress and the chewing damage, but since you said new leaves are comi…

1

Pretty sure that is just winter burn combined with transplant stress. A few things to check though: Rhododendrons are extremely pH sensitive just like blueberries and need acidic soil in the 4.5 to 6 range. If the soil is too alkaline that alone will cause exactly what you're see…

1

Yes, I would work the soil a bit. Use a fork and "tilll" the soil down about 8-10 inches. Then mix in some compost which will loosen things up and add nutrients at the same time.

2

https://preview.redd.it/2pdol2ns7y0h1.png?width=1448&format=png&auto=webp&s=9ed7b680c8884d7ca8ec385dcdd2830c1319a413 Maybe something like this??

2

The growth in just 6 weeks is pretty impressive! I'd hold off on pruning right now though since it just came out of transplant shock and is still establishing its root system. Let it keep all those leaves because they're what's feeding the roots through photosynthesis. The time …

3

Consistent watering is huge since cucumbers are mostly water and they stress out fast without it. Nitrogen-rich fertilizer helps push that leafy growth, and making sure they have full sun (at least 6-8 hours) makes a big difference too. Also, if your soil is compacted or low on o…

1

It looks like your Bermuda is just waking up from dormancy, and you may also have some weed die-off from your herbicides. Bermuda goes pretty brown and patchy before it really takes off in the heat, so that's likely a big part of what you're seeing. First thing I'd do is get a s…

2

For a hot tub or sauna you'll definitely need a concrete pad, that river rock isn't going to cut it for that kind of weight. Get a contractor to pour a reinforced concrete slab sized to what you need, and make sure the footings for those posts are properly rated for the load too.…

2

Inkberry Holly would work look beautiful there or Little Quick Fire Hydrangea or Double Play Spirea.

3

Totally normal for a 2-year-old new build since the soil around fresh construction always settles. Those gaps under the sidewalk and steps are a real concern though, because water will pool underneath and accelerate the sinking over time. Don't just fill with topsoil. Pack it wi…

1

That red clay is the culprit for sure! Blueberries absolutely hate it. Moving them to a raised bed is the right call. Fill it with a mix of peat moss, pine bark fines, and perlite, and aim for a soil pH of 4.5-5.5 (grab a cheap test kit). Toss some pine straw mulch on top and use…

10

A Chicago rooftop is kind of the worst case for blackberries in a pot. Chester Thornless is hardy in the ground, but in containers, the roots and canes can freeze hard, especially with wind. If the canes died over winter, you won’t get fruit this year, so scratch them and see if …

4

Tomato plants normally yellow a bit at the bottom as they grow, but yours also look crowded and a bit water stressed. In your heat, shallow soil dries fast, but if you’re watering lightly and often it can still lead to weak roots. I’d prune off the yellow/diseased lower leaves to…

4

I'd go with the Garden Safe spray. It's safer for repeated use indoors. Then, if the problem continues, move to Sevin.

1

Very cute house! I would suggest repeating 2–3 shade-tolerant perennials (hosta, astilbe, heuchera all work well in your light) and then a low edging plant like liriope or ajuga along the front edge.

2

Wait until right after they finish flowering, then start shaping them up. Don’t cut them hard all at once. Since they’re already straggly, plan on a gradual reset over a couple of seasons rather than a big chop. Each year, thin out about a third of the oldest stems and shorten a …

1

Rinse the plant really well with a strong spray of water to knock most of the bugs off. Then treat it with a simple mix of water and a few drops of mild dish soap or use neem oil, spraying both the tops and undersides of leaves every few days until they’re gone.

4

Do the pruning in stages over a couple of seasons instead of just cutting back half their height. You can also selectively thin some of the growth on top to allow more light to reach the lower brances. That might help to encourage regrowth.

1

Instead of fighting the tree roots, you could turn that area into a “shade bed." You could plant shade-tolerant plants like hostas, ferns, hellebores, or native groundcovers. If you want grass elsewhere, a tall fescue blend is usually the most shade-tolerant option in your area,…

2

Chinese Wisteria is often considered invasive, but if you keep it contained by heavily pruning it, and you remove any seed pods before they mature, you should be fine. Unfortunately, it does tend to be a high-maintenance plant long-term if you want to keep it from spreading.

3

Check how wet the soil is. These plants prefer to have soil that is on the drier side. Make sure its roots aren't sitting in water. Also make sure it’s not in strong direct sun. They prefer bright, indirect light and can drop leaves if they’re getting scorched or stressed.

1

Make sure your pots are draining well, and let the top couple of inches of soil dry out before watering again. If they’re sitting in soggy soil, that’s the biggest thing to correct right away. You may also want to give them a bit of shade in the greenhouse for a few days so they’…

1

I wouldn’t do any heavy pruning right now, just remove any obviously dead or weak twiggy growth and let it settle in for the season. Legginess is pretty normal. Blueberry plants tend to focus on roots at first. As long as it’s in acidic soil, full sun, and staying evenly moist, y…

1

They look like leaf galls which are basically tiny mites. They aren't so much a disease as a cosmetic issue. Your plant should be fine, but if you want to, you can prune off the worst of it to keep it in check. I wouldn't bother spraying these little guys, especially if this is f…

3

Mow high, water deeply but not daily, and fertilize lightly. In the fall, core aerate and overseed with a good cool-season mix like tall fescue or a fescue/bluegrass blend. That’s your biggest win for a lush lawn. Next spring, use a targeted weed control instead of blanket sprayi…

1

It looks like it could have frost damage. The green leaves underneath mean it’s still alive and should push new growth once temps stabilize. I’d hold off on heavy pruning for now and just lightly snip off the obviously dead tips once you’re sure there’s no more frost coming. Keep…

1

Your cheapest option would probably be Emerald Green Arborvitae.

23

They are real wood and look like they are actually in great shape. I wouldn't replace them, just sand them down and restain. Coming from someone who spent hourrrrrs stripping paint off of my stairs like this, I would not paint over this real wood!

3

If they are too full, your plants will end up skinny and weak, and they will eventually flop over. I would thin them out so they are spaced about 6 inches apart.